IN PROGRESS

OEM Cruise Control Swap

This is how you swap factory cruise control into a 92-95 Civic or 90-01 Integra that came without it. The 92-95 Civic and 94-01 Integra parts are all interchangeable.

All of the factory cruise control wiring is entagled in the SRS harness and the interior harness. Cars w/out cruise control have none of this wiring and it's impractical to swap the entire harnesses. This how-to shows you how to wire it all from scratch.

I have an aftermarket steering wheel so I was forced to mount the Resume/Accel, Set/Decel switch remotely. If you have the OEM wheel, you can pop the cover off and mount the switch. But the wiring isn't so simple. Since the steering wheel rotates, you need a slip ring to make the connection to the column otherwise all the wires would get tangled up. I haven't explored this option but it looks like you'll need the slip ring and ribbon harness from the donor car, and you'll need to remove your steering wheel to put it all together.

Parts Required

When you get the parts, make sure you get all the mounting bolts, brackets, and both sides of every wire harness. You have to cut the leads off of all the harnesses so make sure to get as much length as you can.

Cruise Actuator
Auto Cruise Module
Module Bracket
Cruise Switch
Resume/Accel, Set/Decel Switch
Gas and Brake Pedal Assembly
Note that I forgot the four pin brake switch harness and had to go back for it later.
Throttle Cable/Cruise Cable Combo Bracket

Supplies

18 gauge wire, multiple colors preferred
solder
electric tape

Tools Required

Basic tools for removing small bolts, panels, and for connecting wires.

Ratchet
10mm Socket
10mm Wrench
12mm Shallow and Deep Sockets
Long and Short Extensions
Straight Pick for de-pinning wires
Hook Pick for pulling the cotter pin
Phillips Screwdriver
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Panel Popper
Wire Cutters
Wire Strippers
Soldering Iron
De-Soldering Tool
Digital Volt Meter
Drill
Holesaw

Installation

Physically mounting the components is easy. The only thing even mildly difficult is swapping the gas/brake pedal assembly.

Swap Pedal Assemblies

This is the most labor intensive part of the whole process, but it's not as bad as it sounds.

Drop the Steering Column

To get the pedal assembly out, it's necessary to drop the steering column. You don't have to completely remove it, so don't take out the pinch bolts at the rack. Remove the clips and the black cover.

Remove the two inside bolts first, then remove the outer bolts while supporting the wheel. Carefully lower it to the floor.

Remove the Pedal Assembly

First remove the pin that connects the brake pedal to the master cylinder. There is a tiny cotter pin that you need to remove before you can push the joint pin out.

Remove the two 12mm bolts. One is just above the throttle, and the other is above the column holding the brake pedal bracket. Then the four nuts above the brake pedal that hold the brake booster. On the engine bay side, pull the brake booster forward until everything clears the firewall. Use a bungee cord or something to hold it in place.

Next disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body. It isn't necessary to remove the bracket holding the sleeve, we just want some slack on the cable itself so we can disconnect it on the gas pedal side.

(Ignore the fact that the column is shown bolted up in this pic.) Pull the pedal assembly forward and down. The brake switch will get hung up on the ignition wire harness so you will have to fight with it a bit. Now that they're more accessible, you can pop the tab out that connects the throttle cable to the pedal, and push in the pin and release the brake switch harness. Rotate the assembly as you lift the column so that you can get enough clearance to pull it out.

Before you put the cruise pedal assembly in, re-pin the two brake switch wires to the new four pin harness. Now is the best time to connect a wire to the grn/wh brake wire that will go to the auto cruise module later.

Now you can put everything back together making sure tha the throttle, brakes, and brake lights are all working properly.

Cruise Actuator

Before you run the cable through the firewall you should test the unit. You need to have access to the cable to test the actuator.

Remove the two 10mm screws holding the cover on.

Pull the actuator side of the pins out of the harness. Temporarily ground the black wire.

You'll need power to complete the test. I found it convenient to pull one of the leads out of my digital voltmeter, unplug the two-pin distributer harness, and shove the lead in the blk/yel pin. Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the third position (Key On, Engine Off).

Firewall Side	Actuator Side
blk	blk
brn/blk	blu
brn	brn
brn/wh	wh

Test One

Ground black and touch power to white. You should hear the actuator lock so you can't pull the cable.

Test Two

Ground black and blue. Touch power to brown. The actuator should push the cable out.

Test Three

Ground black and brown. Pull on the cable so the linkage is in a middle position. Touch power to blue. The actuator should pull the cable in.

The first actuator I got wouldn't move the cable. The motor inside the actuator was bad, though I could hear it click.

If the actuator is good, mount it to the pre-drilled holes in the frame and run the cable through the bracket and through the firewall. Then connect it to the throttle pedal under the dash.

Cable Bracket

Auto Cruise Module

Installing the bracket for the cruise module is difficult because the dash harness is in the way of the 10mm bolt that is already highly inacessible. Have fun.

Cruise Switch

Leave the switch out until you've wired it up. Pop out the combo switch assembly by pushing from behind. Unplug the dimmer harness, then push the four clips simultaneously to release the blank panel where the Cruise Master Switch drops in.

Resume/Accel, Set/Decel Switch

Since I have an aftermarket steering wheel, I had to come up with a different place to mount the Resume/Accel, Set/Decel Switch. After removing the plug harness from the circuit board as shown in the wiring section, I used an air saw to cut the underside flat (excluding the plug harness of course).

The R/A S/D switch from the EG Civic and DC Integra is slightly rounded on the inside. This creates a gap when mounted to a flat surface. My wife's 01 Civic R/A S/D switch looks like it's flat. I'm not going to take it apart to look at it, but if you can find one in the junkyard, or if you want to look at some other Honda and Acura switches, I'm willing to bet you could find something that looks better and I'm sure the wiring is identical.

Mock up the switch to the shift console and drill a hole in the shift console to clear the three wires. It's not necessary to drill such a big hole, but this is the smallest hole saw I had within arm's reach and I didn't feel like getting my drill bits out.

It doesn't look too bad but it would be nice to think up something to hide the internals.

Wiring

There is a lot of wiring involved. Most of them are wired together, effectively cutting the amount of wires in half. Only a few go to the vehicle.

Cruise Switch

Three of the five wires found on the main switch can be wired color-for-color to the dimmer switch right next to it. The other two have to be extended. The blk/yel runs to the fuse box to join with the other blk/yel and red/blu wires needing ignition power. The lt grn wire extends to the lt grn on the Auto Cruise Module and to the lt grn on the Brake Switch.

Behind Cluster (VSS, Tach, Cruise Light)

Several connections can be made behind the cluster. The tach input is solid blue D5, and the Vehicle Speed Sensor is yel/blu D11.

As far as I can tell, the only way to use the gauge cluster Cruise Indicator light is if you swap in a cluster from a Civic that came with Cruise Control (EX, LX, Si). If you have one of the rare VX or EX clusters with the shift light, then this pin is being used for that purpose (pink wire). You can wire up a separate light or just live w/out it.

Brake Switch

I already covered how to re-pin the brake switch wires in the installation section because it's easier to do it before the pedal assembly is mounted. There are two light green wires on one pin anches off to the lt/grn on the Main Switch. Gray goes to the gray on the Auto Cruise Module.

Wire Color	Connects To
Brn/Wh	Cruise Actuator	Brn/Wh
Gray	Brake Switch	Gray
Black	Ground	Chassis
Grn/Wh	Brake Switch	Grn/Wh
Lt Grn/Red	R/A, S/D Switch	C Ribbon
Lt Grn/Blk	R/A, S/D Switch	B Ribbon
Blue	Tach Behind Cluster	Blue
Brown	Cruise Actuator	Brown
Red/Blu	Cruise Light Behind Cluster	Red/Blue
Brn/Blk	Cruise Actuator	Brn/Blk
Blk/Yel	Accessory Power Fuse Box	Blk/Yel
Yel/Blu	VSS Behind Cluster	Yel/Blu
Lt Green	Cruise Switch AND Brake Switch	Lt Grn
Pink	Lower Clutch Switch	Pi/Blk